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Vivienne Mackinder is a true legend in editorial hairstyling. From her Vidal Sassoon roots to her work with Trevor Sorbie, she’s built a career as an icon and true inspiration. This past week, we joined her in Times Square for her Photoshoot Workshop, where eight stylists from around America and Canada wrapped up six weeks of training, consisting of taking their ideas from mood boards all the way to editorial-ready hair.
After observing all the magic, here’s what we took away with us.
The Camera is the Client
A sentiment coined by photographer Joseph Cartright, when working in editorial photoshoots, while we of course ensure the model looks incredible, the actual client isn’t the person, it’s the camera. Working in this side of the industry means adjusting certain aspects of your work to suit how the camera sees.
Long story short, everything needs to be exaggerated. Joseph explained how capturing in 2D means there’s actually no depth, so it’s up to the stylist to create the illusion of it, often by doing things you’d never do on a day-to-day client sitting in your chair.
Models Know Their Faces, So Listen Up
Models know their faces better than anyone. While stylists understand bone structure and balance, collaborating with models ensures each look flatters their features and translates effortlessly on camera.
Teamwork Makes the Dream Work
On set, there’s no room for ego. Success comes from pivoting quickly, jumping in to assist, and staying in sync. A strong artistic director, in this case, Mackinder herself, keeps the entire team aligned and the vision intact. If someone’s falling behind, natural instincts should be ‘how can we get them the support they need’.
Every Element Tells Part of the Story
Editorial hair doesn’t exist in isolation. Every look must complement the makeup, fashion, the model and the overall concept. Cohesion is key. If one element is off, the story falls flat. Stylists need to constantly keep the collection’s mood and narrative top of mind.
Time is Money
Delays cost everyone. From studio fees to model time, every extra minute adds up. This makes preparation even more important, which is why Mackinder’s six-week workshop process ensures stylists get on set ready to execute without wasting a second. And if the team is behind schedule, it’s all about what changes and pushes can be made to get back on track.
Our two days on set had high energy, fueled by stylists who were passionate to learn and Mackinder’s unmatched mentorship. Whether it was watching her jump in to rough up a model’s bangs for just the right edge or seeing her guide each stylist one-on-one, the experience highlighted the artistry, discipline, and collaboration it takes to succeed in editorial hairstyling.
