Lead Hairstylist Jawara Puts a Modern Twist on ‘90s Grunge Hair at Helmut Lang’s SS24 Runway Show


After taking the reins as the new creative director for Helmut Lang back in May, designer Peter Do kicked off day one of New York Fashion Week with the unveiling of his highly anticipated debut collection. Titled, “Born to Go,” his Spring 2024 line not only served as a celebration of ‘90s minimalism, but also as a love letter to New York City and the people that call it home. His ultra-sleek pieces catered to true New Yorker style followed a black-heavy, mostly neutral color palette and gave many specific nods to some of the city’s most notable forms of transportation: the subway and its yellow taxi cabs.

Serving as lead hairstylist, Jawara was tasked with crafting an array of cool hair looks that reflected Do’s new vision for the brand. The result? Grungy gel-slicked hairstyles ranging from spiky top-knots to slicked styles outfitted with fabric bands and rake comb headbands—all of which were created using Dyson tools, such as the Corrale Straightener and Supersonic Hair Dryer, as well as a blend of Bumble and bumble products. 

Pre-show, The Tease chatted with Jawara about his inspiration for the hair looks, his key hair products, and his favorite thing about styling for fashion week. Keep on reading for more!

The Tease: What can you tell us about the hair looks for the Peter Do for Helmut Lang Spring 2024 runway show? What served as inspiration?

Jawara: We looked at old Helmut Lang shows. There’s something so great about the fact that they were effortless, but they also had a bit of grunge to them. So we decided to modernize it and do really done, but undone hair—if that makes any sense. The hair is dirty so we’re putting a lot of product in it to make it feel like it hasn’t been washed. And we’re just doing back knots that are kind of unfinished with two little bands.

And we’re also doing the rake comb thing from the ‘90s. We’re doing a little gel with it so it feels like someone hasn’t really washed their hair in a few days—kind of grungy with a New York feel—and I’m excited about bringing it back.

How do these grungy, undone hair looks complement the fashion from the collection?

Jawara: Everything is super chic, but also wearable and smart with a New York vibe to it. So I think it complements it in a sense where the hair is a bit more cool and undone, but the clothes are really beautiful at the same time and cool, as well. I feel like together it makes sense.

As far as key products, what did you use to prep and style the hair?

Jawara: We’re using Bumble and bumble Bb. gel as well as we’re using Sumotech on some of the guys’ hair to add a waxy, oily feel. We’re also using a lot of hairspray from Bumble and bumble as well as the Brilliantine and the primer.

Lastly, what’s your favorite thing about working at New York Fashion Week?

Jawara: My favorite thing about working at New York Fashion Week is it’s very nostalgic for me because I’m from New York. One of the reasons why I fell in love with fashion is because of New York Fashion Week so I’m always going to love it. It’s always going to be my favorite.

Get the Look

Look 1: Combed Headband Look

Image courtesy of Bumble and bumble
  1. Start by prepping the hair with Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Primer, blow-drying the product using a flat brush to smooth the hair. 
  2. Then, section the top half of the hair away from the bottom half.
  3. Taking sections from the top of the hair, apply Bb. Gel at the root and comb through.
  4. Place the comb headband, carefully using it to rake the hair backwards to create distinct lines at the front of the head.
  5. Then, style the hair with Surf Spray, scrunching as it is sprayed to create texture.
  6. To finish the look, use Brilliantine at the ends of the hair to create pieceyness.

Look 2: Spiked Knot-Bun

Image courtesy of Bumble and bumble
  1. Start by prepping the hair with Bb. Thickening Spray, blow-drying hair from side to side to create volume.
  2. Once the hair is completely dry, brush hair back into a bun at the occipital bone, and generously apply Spray de Mode hairspray
  3. Then, secure hair into an elastic, twisting hair along to create a knot with some pieces unsecured.
  4. Use 4-5 bobby pins to secure the bun in place. 
  5. To accentuate and hold the spikes, apply Strong Finish hairspray.
  6. This look is finished with a fabric band placed at the crown and tied together under the knot-bun.

Look 3: Slicked Back Style

Image courtesy of Bumble and bumble
  1. Start by prepping hair with Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil Primer, raking hair backwards for a lived-in, undone finish. 
  2. Apply Sumotech through hair to create a hand-tossed look.
  3. Finish with Thickening Dryspun Texture Spray, and a small amount of Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil on the ends.

*Some models also wore a fabric band which was placed at the crown.

If you recreate these looks for your next client, or for yourself at home, be sure to tag @readthetease on Instagram.

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Camille Nzengung

Camille Nzengung is a Features Editor at The Tease, where she covers all things hair. You can find her writing about the best hair products, the coolest hair trends, and all the exciting new hair launches. Send her a pitch: cnzengung@thetease.com.

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