Last Thursday (Sept. 17th), designer Christian Siriano closed out New York Fashion Week with a dreamy, fantasy-filled fashion extravaganza. The Project Runway alum brought his signature red carpet glamour to the backyard of his Connecticut home for a socially distant runway show to debut his spring 2021 collection. Titled, Collection 37, his designs this season were inspired by his time spent in quarantine, binge-watching his favorite childhood films like The Wizard of Oz, Troop Beverly Hills, and The Babysitter’s Dead.
“Even at home, things can inspire us, and I hope this collection shows that fashion remains powerful despite the circumstances, and don’t forget, this November, VOTE,” said Siriano, in a press release.
The collection was full of Clueless-inspired coordinating sets with masks to match, charming gingham prints, and a show-stopping red ruffled gown and boater hat combo modeled by pregnant supermodel, Coco Rocha. But of course, the final looks weren’t complete without some necessary glam from Sebastian Professional International Artist, Anthony Cole, who gave the models slicked-back abstract buns.
We spoke to Cole about what went into planning the runway hair looks, what it was like doing hair outside, and how fans can recreate his stunning bun hairdo.
The Tease: How did you go about preparing for the day of the show?
Anthony Cole: Usually we would do a hair test prior to the show, but with COVID, Christian [Siriano] and I did a hair test over FaceTime with a mannequin head. Because of COVID guidelines and needing to work outdoors, we didn’t use much heat styling and created the looks using product only.
Many of the models wore coordinating boater hats with their looks. What did the styling look like for them underneath the hats?
Cole: After speaking with Christian on the phone, I let him know that I was not concerned about the elements being a factor because the products I worked with from Sebastian Professional work really well when up against natural elements. We decided to go with an abstract low bun, that way you could still see the bun if the hat was on and if the model’s second look didn’t have a hat, the bun still worked.
Did the fact that the show was going to be hosted outside influence the styling decisions at all?
Cole: Yes, it did impact the look we went with. I wanted to ensure that the look and products withstood the elements and gave the hair shine and control. Microweb fiber is excellent for that, and Potion 9 does the same on textured hair. The abstract bun kept the hair intact while looking beautiful and different.
The show was full of so much hair texture and styling variety — from shaggy bobs to natural coiled afros to sleek chignons. How did you approach styling each model?
Cole: When working with textured hair, I wanted to create a little moisture in the hair and get rid of any frizz. Sebastian Professional Dark Oil really helps with that. I also used Microweb Fiber to add grip and flexibility.
There was one model who walked the runway with her hair decorated in colorful flowers to match her floral embellished gown. How were the flowers applied to her hair?
Cole: I took U-shaped hair pins and placed them inside the hair with the flower, and wrapped the hair around the pin itself to secure the flower in place. We then added some little feathers and I used a very fine pin for those as well.
Did you have a favorite hair look from the show? If so, what was it?
Cole: The long red textured hair with the flowers and embellishment in the hair. I feel like this look really tied the whole show together, she looked like a garden princess.
Get The Look: Abstract Bun
Step 1: Divide the front section of hair two inches into the hair line, brushing forward and away.
Step 2: Mix Sebastian Professional Craft Clay and Sebastian Professional Dark Oil together in hands to emulsify. Distribute throughout the remaining back section of hair. [Note: For textured hair, add Sebastian Professional Microweb Fiber to Craft Clay and Dark Oil combination for added grip.]
Step 3: Pull this section back into a low ponytail at the bottom of the head, slightly of centered. Secure low pony with elastic band.
Step 4: Spray Sebastian Professional Shaper Zero Gravity hairspray onto a bristle brush, brushing through the loose front section of hair that you originally separated. Pull section straight back to meet the rest of the hair in the low ponytail. Fasten two sections together into one ponytail using an elastic band.
Step 6: Twist your ponytail once upwards, curving against the back of your head. Fasten twist with a hair pin. The hair will bend naturally into a bun shape.
Step 7: Continue to twist the remaining ponytail following the same direction, in an S motion, staying close to the back of your head. Pin twist down periodically with hair pins, creating an abstract bun.
Step 8: Finish with Sebastian Professional Shaper Fierce hairspray for strong hold.
The finished look will be a beautiful twisted bun!