For this year’s Met Gala, “I Love LA” star, Rachel Sennott, debuted a richer, moodier brunette by Matt Rez, Paul Mitchell Professional Global Color Artist. Rez calls this color, “Cocoa Noir Brunette,” a shadow-saturated brunette that reads almost inky before softening into nuanced cocoa tones as it moves.
Sennot’s a natural level 6 base, with previous highlights grown through. Rez’s goal wasn’t just to go darker, it was to create a deeper, cooler brunette that could evolve as she does, not lock her into a long-term color commitment. To make it happen Rez utilized Paul Mitchell The Demi (an MEA-based, ammonia-free system), saying “we deposited tone without lift — allowing us to shift depth and richness while keeping the integrity of the hair and ensuring a soft, seamless fade back to lighter.”
Read on for the exact formula.
Get the Formula:
Step 1: Fill Gloss
- The Demi 6GB + 7N + 8MT (20 mins)
- This step rebuilds the underlying pigment lost from previous lightening. The key here is filling with a balance of neutral and slightly cool tones, rather than going overly warm.
- The gold-beige (GB) restores warmth needed for depth
- The Natural (N) balances
- The Matte (MT) keeps everything controlled and prevents excess warmth
Step 2: Final Gloss
- The Demi 6GB + 7NB + 7NB + 6MT (20 mins)
- This is where the Cocoa Noir tone comes to life.
- You’re layering the tone strategically, cool enough to read expensive and dimensional, but with just enough warmth underneath to keep the brunette reflective and natural.
- The NB (neutral brown) adds richness and fullness
- The MT (matte) neutralizes and deepens, creating that smoky, luxe finish
- The GB keeps just enough warmth so the color doesn’t feel flat or hollow
If you use this “Cocoa Noir Brunette” formula for your next client, don’t be shy. Tag @readthetease on Instagram and TikTok.