When it comes to creating gorgeous natural-looking hair colors, nobody does it better than Tracey Cunningham. As one of the most sought-after colorists in the world, Cunningham has crafted some of the most enviable shades of blonde, brunette, and red for many of Hollywood’s biggest names like Anya Taylor-Joy, Jennifer Lopez, Emma Stone, and Lana Del Rey, among many others.
While the legendary colorist—who’s also the U.S. Creative Director of Color & Technique for Schwarzkopf Professional—may be renowned for her incredible color transformations, her color wizardry also extends to covering gray hairs, too. While gray coverage services have a tendency to be overlooked by pros, Cunningham has proven herself to be quite an expert on covering, blending, and enhancing gray strands.
That’s why we were so excited to have the opportunity to connect with Cunningham about how pros can better tackle gray coverage for their clients. Here, she shares the questions that she recommends asking during consultations, the Schwarzkopf products that are must-haves for her “gray coverage toolbox”, her tried-and-true tips and techniques for achieving stunning gray coverage results for her clients, and so much more. Keep scrolling for her incredible insights.
The Tease: Why do you think some hair pros might shy away from offering gray coverage as a service?
Tracey Cunningham: Gray coverage services are often overlooked as basic, and in recent years, there’s been a stronger focus on more specialized, trend-driven color techniques. It’s not typically seen as the most exciting service–but the reality is, for most colorists, it’s a major revenue driver. Gray coverage clients are incredibly valuable, and pros shouldn’t shy away from offering this service or underestimate its importance. At the end of the day, delivering seamless, natural-looking gray coverage is a skill that keeps clients coming back — and that’s what truly builds a thriving business.
Unlike other color services, gray hair tends to be more resistant due to its coarser texture, and achieving a natural, blended result requires skill and precision. Plus, it’s not a one-size-fits-all approach—-every client’s gray pattern, hair texture, and desired outcome are different, so it takes a customized approach each time. But once you master the right products and techniques, it’s such a rewarding service to offer because it truly transforms how clients feel about their hair and can give back that confidence.
What do you think is different about the way gray coverage is approached by pros now versus a couple years ago? Do you think the pandemic played a massive role in this change?
Cunningham: Absolutely! The pandemic completely changed how people viewed their gray hair. Many clients who used to be strict about covering grays let them grow out naturally during lockdown, which led to more interest in soft gray blending rather than full coverage. But the biggest change? We’re finally talking more about gray hair — and that’s so important to me. It’s time for gray to get the recognition that it deserves!
Now, rather than just erasing grays, many pros are using techniques that enhance and blend them more seamlessly. Products like IGORA VIBRANCE and Chroma ID allow us to create more natural, dimensional coverage rather than a solid, high-maintenance look. There’s also been a shift in using express services like Schwarzkopf Professionals’s COLOR10, which offers quick touch-ups for clients who want coverage but have a busy schedule.
Gray hair can be a sensitive subject for many clients of all ages. How do you tend to approach speaking about gray hair to your clients to ensure a positive consultation? And what kind of questions are most important to ask during this period to ensure you can deliver the best results?
Cunningham: Gray hair can be an emotional topic for some, so I always make sure my clients feel heard and empowered so they leave my chair with their desired look. Instead of assuming they want to cover their grays completely, I like to start by learning exactly what they hope to achieve from the service:
- “How do you feel about your gray hair?”
- “Would you like to blend your grays or fully cover them?”
- “Do you prefer a softer, natural look or solid coverage?”
It’s all about understanding their vision and creating a customized solution that fits their lifestyle and maintenance preference. I also remind them that gray coverage doesn’t mean high maintenance—with the right products and techniques, we can create a look that grows out beautifully.
What are some of your go-to techniques for covering up grays? And how do your techniques differ for your brunette clients as opposed to your blonde and redhead clients when it comes to gray coverage?
Cunningham: Whenever I do a base, I always make sure to do the hairline a level lighter than the rest of the base because it makes it look a lot more natural. For brunettes, I love using IGORA ROYAL for full, solid coverage on resistant grays, then refreshing the mids and ends with IGORA VIBRANCE to keep the color rich and dimensional. I also incorporate Chroma ID when I want to avoid pulling permanent color through the ends, ensuring the hair stays healthy and shiny.
For blondes, especially those with a lot of gray grow-out, I use a full foil technique with coverage in between to maintain brightness while blending their grays seamlessly. IGORA Zero AMM and IGORA VIBRANCE are my go-to’s for keeping the color looking natural while avoiding excessive brassiness. For redheads, covering grays can be a bit trickier because red pigment fades faster. I like to mix IGORA ROYAL with IGORA VIBRANCE to keep the tone vibrant and prevent it from looking flat.
How do you advise handling gray coverage for clients who are just starting to go gray?
Cunningham: If a client is just starting to see grays, I recommend a softer approach rather than full coverage right away. This is where IGROA VIBRANCE and Chroma ID come in handy—I use them to blend and soften grays while keeping their natural tone intact. For those who want low-maintenance coverage, I might suggest a glossing service or subtle highlights to help camouflage the grays without creating a harsh regrowth line. It’s all about meeting the client where they are in their hair journey and creating a solution that fits their lifestyle.
What are some of your most used Schwarzkopf gray coverage formulas?
Cunningham: I use 8-00 + 9-00 on the hairline and 6-0 + 7-0 with 20 vol a lot as a really pretty brunette base. I also love 9-0 + 9-00 on the hairline and 8-0 + 8-00 with 20 vol for a lighter base. I love to mix -0 with -00 and a 20 volume developer for really good gray coverage.
Could you share some of your Schwarzkopf hero products that you love to use on your gray-haired clients?
Cunningham: IGORA ROYAL is my go-to for full gray coverage with rich, long-lasting results. IGROA VIBRANCE is the perfect demi-permanent color for refreshing mids and ends or softly blending first grays. Chroma ID is a conditioning color mask that’s amazing for maintaining vibrancy and shine between salon visits. COLOR10 is great for clients who want fast gray coverage without spending too much time in the chair — perfect for busy professionals!
What advice would you give to other pros who want to start taking on gray-haired clients?
Cunningham: First, just like any other color skill, it’s so important to educate yourself on the best products and techniques for gray coverage—because not all grays are the same! Finding the right products that work for you is key to building confidence and mastering this type of service. This is one of the reasons I switched to Schwarzkopf Professional. The range of options gives me so much more flexibility than I had before, allowing me to fully customize my clients’ color like never before. There’s truly something for everyone, and it’s exciting to dive into my ‘gray coverage toolbox’ to create the perfect tailored formula every time.
Schwarzkopf Professional’s IGORA ROYAL is my go-to for full, 100% gray coverage, while IGORA VIBRANCE is perfect for refreshing mids and ends without over-processing, allowing for a customized approach for each client. If you’re looking for a way to elevate your standard base retouch, here’s a great tip: Chroma ID is a conditioning color mask that matches IGORA ROYAL shades. This means you can do a base retouch with permanent and then instead of pulling anything through the ends, you can apply Chroma ID in the matching shade for a color refresh and nourishing results.
Beyond the technical side, communication is key. Make sure to have an open dialogue with your client about what they want —some may want full coverage, while others prefer to embrace some of their natural grays with a more blended look.
For more of Cunningham’s expert tips and trips, be sure to follow @schwarzkopfusa and @traceycunningham1 on Instagram.
